Quick Pruning Tips

Many of the plants in your garden will never need pruning. An entire summer of vegetable gardening can go by without any thought of pruning, save the occasional removal of diseased leaves. But the woody perennials that make up so much of your property’s décor, all of your ornamental shrubs and trees, do need pruning to help shape them into ideal specimens and keep them healthy. Proper pruning helps trees and shrubs grow strong and helps minimize disease by allowing light and air to easily reach the interior. While pruning can a complex subject, here are a few points to consider as you get started.

1. Prune for problems anytime

First, dead branches on trees or shrubs can—and should—be pruned at any time of the year. It’s not doing the appearance of your landscaping any good to have broken and dead branches around, and they can pose a safety hazard. So don’t wait for a specific time to trim these, just do it as needed. The same goes for diseased branches—you should prune the minute it becomes an issue so that the plant doesn’t keep putting energy into a diseased section and can use that energy for productivity elsewhere. Pruning diseased sections also help keep the disease from spreading to neighboring trees and shrubs.

2. Prune for maintenance at the right time

When pruning live branches, the time of year becomes important. Some plants prepare the year’s blossom on old growth, some on new, and you don’t want your pruning job to diminish the blossoming. Shrubs and trees that flower early in the spring should generally be pruned once the blossom show is completed. Likewise, shrubs and trees that flower later in the year should be pruned late the next winter. But that’s broad advice—the ideal month for pruning varies by species, so definitely do your research for your specific plant before getting out the shears.

If blossoms aren’t the main goal—say you’re pruning a shrub that is grown for ornamental foliage—then late winter or very early spring prior to growth is frequently a good time for pruning. Pruning at this time helps ensure that the plant will be able to immediately heal over the cut and seal the wound from disease as soon as the growing season starts. But again, research your individual situation first.

Using bypass pruning shears to make a heading cut back to a lateral bud on an apple tree branch.

3. Prune with the right tools

  • Pruning shears. You’ll want a good pair of hand pruners—specifically, bypass shears. These will be sufficient to handle a good deal of the work you need to do. It goes without saying that your pruners should be sharp—but we’ll say it anyway because it’s easy to think your shears are sharp when they’re actually not, and you can end up working harder and straining your hands a lot more than necessary.
  • Lopping shears. This tool has essentially the same blade style as your bypass pruners, but it’s larger, with long handles that provide you the leverage needed to cut through thick branches. Some loppers can handle branches 2 or 3 inches in diameter.
  • Pruning saw. For any branch thicker than about 2 inches, you’ll need a saw; dedicated pruning saws are often curved to help you maintain contact with the branch even if you’re reaching above your head.
  • Minimize disease. If you’re going to be pruning live branches, it doesn’t hurt to clean your cutting tools prior to use. A 70% alcohol solution will help prevent bacteria and disease from entering your plant’s living tissue.
Pruning a cherry tree branch with bypass pruning loppers.

4. Prune the right way

Choosing the correct branches to prune takes practice! Young trees and shrubs should be pruned for an ideal shape—something that strengthens the plant’s structure, permits good airflow, but prevents the plant from “looking” like it was pruned. It can help to remove:

  • Suckers growing up from the base
  • Branches that grow back in towards the trunk
  • Vertically growing branches

Typically, you’ll want to prune a stem or branch close to its collar, where it attaches to the trunk or larger branch. For heavy branches, make your first cut about 6 inches away from the trunk in case any peeling occurs when it falls. Then, you can then remove the remaining stub closer in.

Using a pruning saw

Pruning is a big job, and can be challenging if you’re new to it. If you’re unsure, consult a video or in-depth guide, or perhaps a more advanced gardener can show you hands-on how best to prune your property’s landscape. With time you can keep your trees and shrubs healthy and attractive.

Daniel Johnson is a Wisconsin-based freelance writer, professional photographer and co-author of over a dozen books. See his garden and animal photography at foxhillphoto.com.

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