I was perusing holiday clearance racks at the local big box store and happened upon a shelf of abandoned amaryllis bulbs. They looked so sad, but they had signs of life. Little leaf and bud tips were peeking out their tops, and were nice and green, so I knew they were still viable.

I thought, why not? They’re not just for the holidays anymore! I bought one because nothing lifts your mood on a cold grey, winter day like a blooming bulb. They’re so bright cheery.

It was already planted in a potting medium in a cute little pot, so all I did was place it near a window with bright, indirect light. I’ll water bi-weekly for a few weeks and soon I will enjoy its showy red blooms swaying atop its slender stalks. I encourage you to see if you can find an overlooked amaryllis bulb to force because we need this sort of thing this time of year.

Planting holiday bloomers like amaryllis and paperwhites.

Most require some prior planning and prep—I’ll cover that next—but amaryllis and paperwhites do not. Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus) are cousins of daffodils and are a common bulb to force in the winter.

Forcing paperwhites in pebbles or marbles filled with water is easy and the effect is striking. Select a shallow dish, about 3 inches high. After adding a layer of pebbles or marbles to your vessel of choice—enough to cover the bulbs—nestle the paperwhites among the them so they are supported and secure. Water to the bottom of the bulbs. Place the bulbs in a cold treatment situation (in the dark and at 40 degrees) for one week.

Move to a location with bright, but indirect light and in a couple weeks, the paperwhites will bloom and fill your house with their heady fragrance. It’s potent but embrace it like you do your favorite aunt’s perfume.

Keep the water level at the base of the bulbs throughout the process. They take up a surprising amount of water, so keep a close eye on it.

Planting spring-bloomers like daffodils and hyacinths indoors.

Mark your calendars: October is when you begin the process of coaxing tulip, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs to enjoy January blooms.

Select a pot that is least 6-inches tall and with a drainage hole or a layer of pebbles at the base. Fill about one-third full of potting soil. Press the bulbs into the soil, pointy ends up, crowding them close but not touching. Top the bulbs with enough soil to leave the tips exposed, gently packing the soil down around the bulbs.

Leaving at least an inch between the soil line and the top of the pot will provide the stems support as they grow, as forced bulbs do tend to flop over easily. Water until the soil is slightly moist and cover with a plastic bag, loosely knotted at the end, to help the pot retain moisture, yet still get a little air circulation into it. You do not want the soil to dry out.

You must mimic the overwintering process by keeping them at a temperature of around 40 degrees for 12 weeks. Do not allow them to freeze or go much above 48 degrees. A refrigerator is the perfect place to do this. Place your pot in a refrigerator or cool space. Check every month to make sure it hasn’t dried out and if it has, water until moist.

After 12 weeks, uncover, water if necessary and move to a cool sunny window until they begin to bloom, which will be a couple weeks. Once they begin to flower, transfer to a bright, indirectly lit location to help preserve the blooms. Continue to water the bulb garden to retain an even moistness.

Hyacinth bulbs can go through the cooling process unplanted and then be forced to bloom in a glass vase with an opening narrow enough to hold the bulb.

Eric Johnson is a longtime contributor to Northern Gardener, blogger and lifelong gardener in Roseville, Minn.

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